Manitoba has just announced it is making it mandatory for all homes to be retrofitted with a CO sensor. I applaud this decision and hope that it will ripple to other provinces including BC as well.
As a home inspector, I ALWAYS recommend a CO sensor in any home with gas appliances or an attached garage. I am dissapointed that some mayors and building officials in Manitoba only look at the logistics and costs of the inspections or false alarms.
Is saving a life not worth all the false alarms that may occure over a year?
This article explains CO gas and where the sensors should be located.
Wednesday, December 29, 2010
Wednesday, November 17, 2010
BC Home Warranty Program - CBC Story
After reading yet another news storey about home owners that have not found relief from their home warranty provider, you have to ask - Is the system working???
The concept of having builders pay a premium to have their homes covered by a warranty program, in case problems arise post construction is sound. But it will only protect the public if the following is in place:
- The program is not relied on as a catch net for shoddy workmanship (this should be caught by the municipal inspectors and they should have the jurisdiction to comment on workmanship, something they are currently not authorized to do)
- The home actually gets inspected throughout the construction by the warranty provider inspector to ensure compliance with warranty specifications
- The warranty inspectors are required to be trained to the same levels as a municipal inspector and required to update their training on an ongoing basis (they need to be Certified or preferably even Licensed)
- The specifications for the finished structures need to be improved significantly. Homeowners would be shocked at what is not considered a 'defect' by the warranty companies policies. These specifications should be set by public and industry consultation, and not be some big secret locked in the warranty companies vault. There should be a panel of industry experts that sit around a table and discuss what makes a good long lasting dwelling. This panel should include members from the building enclosure science industry. Why not make a home covered by a warranty, a sign of building excellence instead of the same minimal standards represented by the building code.
- The fees paid by the builders need to reflect that particular builders track record (and this should track the head contractor personally and not just a company name). If they build poorly, require a lot of supervision, and their structures result in a lot of call backs - they should be charged more.
- In general, the fees collected should be able to cover the industry re-work required. We do not want another repeat of what happened when the HPO pulled the interest free loans for leaky condo owners because the work required exceeded the money collected.
As a home inspector, I have performed milestone inspections for owners coming up to a warranty milestones, and have always been disappointed at how loose the warranty policies are. Things I would consider a deficiency during a regular pre-purchase home inspection are items the policies do not cover and my clients have no coverage for. I regularly hear from other owners who have had the same concerns in their struggle to get items addressed by the builder to only be told the deficiency is not covered.
We are coming into a new way of building homes in 2011, when the building code introduces changes for phase 1 of a push for more energy efficient homes. These changes come with a need to fundamentally change how walls are constructed (the increases in thermal insulation of walls will require externally insulated assemblies in most cases) and as such, we are going to need the industry to understand the science behind these changes. Externally insulated walls require a fundamental change in how we address vapour barriers and how we build to ensure homes are more air tight and there is less likelihood of warm interior air condensing somewhere within the wall assembly. I believe the vast majority of builders are building things 'the way we have for the last 30 years' and as such, we are setting ourselves up for the next big mass of residential building failures. As such, it is more important than ever, to ensure the consumer is protected from the liability that may be present in these new structures.
My recommendation is to hire your own inspectors. Talk to your municipality - they may have a recommendation for retired municipal building, plumbing or electrical inspector that provides supplementary inspections for home owners who are contracting to have a home built. You can usually also just pay for extra municipal inspections. Some home inspectors may also be able to provide this service, but most do not have the building code training or do not perform building code inspections enough to remain current.
Lastly, make sure your specifications provide a house that YOU will be comfortable with, this often means a home built to best practices, as opposed to minimal building codes. Be willing to invest a little more money and have a building envelope scientist look at the design and have all parties listen carefully to their recommendations. Do not let aesthetic design requirements override fundamental good building science. Make sure your builders/contractors are aware that you will be holding them to a higher standard.
In closing, I support the concept of a home warranty program. But the system, as it stands right now is not working, and even if it was would in my opinion, not result in a guarantee of well built homes. We need improvements to how homes are built, what is covered by the warranty, transparency in the program, and accountability by both the building community and the warranty providers.
Sunday, November 14, 2010
Home Inspector Continual Education
As publisher of The BC Inspector industry newsletter, I like to practise what I preach and try to attend most of the continuing education opportunities in my geographical area. I am also currently taking a 12 week Building Envelope Science course at BCIT.
What strikes me as unfortunate, is that I seldom see any volume of other inspectors at these events. In fact, I usually see the same 2-3 inspectors who like me, feel that remaining current in your training is crucial to performing our jobs properly. (Province probably has in the region of 350-500 licenced inspectors)
Many inspectors make all kinds of claims of earned education credits, but why are they never seen at building industry seminars and events. BC Building Envelope Council puts on excellent seminars on a regular basis, that are completely relevant for a home and property inspector. The Building Enclosure Science industry hosts regular conferences providing a full day of learning on just one topic - building envelope, which is the most important building component today in light of the number of leaking multi-family units on the market. Yet at all of the recent events I attended there were the same 2-3 of us from the home inspection industry.
Many inspectors do attend the meeting seminars provided by their certification associations and these events are a useful addition to a inspectors training. However, they are often limited in scope or too brief to be of any meaningful educational when attended in isolation. There main purpose seems to be to allow the inspector to check off that they have met their associations continual training requirements.
There should be some requirement within the certification programs or even licencing that ensures an inspector receives continual training on ALL of the buildings components and systems in a home. In addition to earning a certain number of arbitrary credits per year, an inspector should have to provide proof that they have covered a list of required topics on a cycle of X years. This would force the inspectors to break out and seek out a wider variety of training and would encourage the certification associations to look further afield, than the usual fair, for seminar providers.
In fact, it is now easy than ever, for a home inspector to find out what is being offered in their areas by becoming a subscriber to http://www.thebcinspector.ca/, where they will be able to view a CPD calendar that lists hundreds of seminar opportunities across the Province.
SO, when hiring an inspector, ask what courses are seminars they have taken lately and see if they truly are maintaining their professional development in this field.
What strikes me as unfortunate, is that I seldom see any volume of other inspectors at these events. In fact, I usually see the same 2-3 inspectors who like me, feel that remaining current in your training is crucial to performing our jobs properly. (Province probably has in the region of 350-500 licenced inspectors)
Many inspectors make all kinds of claims of earned education credits, but why are they never seen at building industry seminars and events. BC Building Envelope Council puts on excellent seminars on a regular basis, that are completely relevant for a home and property inspector. The Building Enclosure Science industry hosts regular conferences providing a full day of learning on just one topic - building envelope, which is the most important building component today in light of the number of leaking multi-family units on the market. Yet at all of the recent events I attended there were the same 2-3 of us from the home inspection industry.
Many inspectors do attend the meeting seminars provided by their certification associations and these events are a useful addition to a inspectors training. However, they are often limited in scope or too brief to be of any meaningful educational when attended in isolation. There main purpose seems to be to allow the inspector to check off that they have met their associations continual training requirements.
There should be some requirement within the certification programs or even licencing that ensures an inspector receives continual training on ALL of the buildings components and systems in a home. In addition to earning a certain number of arbitrary credits per year, an inspector should have to provide proof that they have covered a list of required topics on a cycle of X years. This would force the inspectors to break out and seek out a wider variety of training and would encourage the certification associations to look further afield, than the usual fair, for seminar providers.
In fact, it is now easy than ever, for a home inspector to find out what is being offered in their areas by becoming a subscriber to http://www.thebcinspector.ca/, where they will be able to view a CPD calendar that lists hundreds of seminar opportunities across the Province.
SO, when hiring an inspector, ask what courses are seminars they have taken lately and see if they truly are maintaining their professional development in this field.
Friday, October 8, 2010
Are you always best served by your agent
This is an excellent discussion on why you may be better served by ensuring you hire a truly independent home inspector.
http://www.investinganswers.com/a/why-your-real-estate-agent-isnt-always-working-you-1899
http://www.investinganswers.com/a/why-your-real-estate-agent-isnt-always-working-you-1899
Friday, September 17, 2010
Getting a Mortgage on a Leaky Condo
Did you know your chances of getting a mortgage plummet as soon as they find out that the condo is a suspected 'leaker'.
In most cases, the majority of well established lenders will not lend on properties which are suspected to be 'leaky condo's' or that are only partially fixed if previously identified. In order for most lenders to advance funds on a unit in a building determined as a 'leaker;' they want to see a full remediation plan laid out and approved by the Strata. They further want to see that the repairs will be covered or are covered by a 3rd party warranty.
Most lenders will request the following documents, prior to lending on a building identified by the home inspection as a 'leaky condo':
1) Strata Form B documents
2) Last 2 years AGM minutes
3) Building Envelope Engineer's report identifying scope and budget for fix
4) Minutes of Special General meeting where at least 75% of the strata voted in favor of the special assessment, or other funding formula, needed to finance the complete restoration of the building, per the engineer's recommendations.
5) Three contractor quotations
6) If work is already complete - Completion Certificate/Inspection Report from Building Envelope Engineer
It is important that we, as home inspector's, correctly identify the risk on multi-family condominium style dwellings and that you our clients are made aware of the difficulty in obtaining a mortgage on these units if plans are not already in place to repair.
I am grateful to Alan Brown - Mortgage Professional www.mypowermortgage.com/alan for providing the body of this information.
In most cases, the majority of well established lenders will not lend on properties which are suspected to be 'leaky condo's' or that are only partially fixed if previously identified. In order for most lenders to advance funds on a unit in a building determined as a 'leaker;' they want to see a full remediation plan laid out and approved by the Strata. They further want to see that the repairs will be covered or are covered by a 3rd party warranty.
Most lenders will request the following documents, prior to lending on a building identified by the home inspection as a 'leaky condo':
1) Strata Form B documents
2) Last 2 years AGM minutes
3) Building Envelope Engineer's report identifying scope and budget for fix
4) Minutes of Special General meeting where at least 75% of the strata voted in favor of the special assessment, or other funding formula, needed to finance the complete restoration of the building, per the engineer's recommendations.
5) Three contractor quotations
6) If work is already complete - Completion Certificate/Inspection Report from Building Envelope Engineer
It is important that we, as home inspector's, correctly identify the risk on multi-family condominium style dwellings and that you our clients are made aware of the difficulty in obtaining a mortgage on these units if plans are not already in place to repair.
I am grateful to Alan Brown - Mortgage Professional www.mypowermortgage.com/alan for providing the body of this information.
Re-Sale of Leaky Condos: Did the Buyer Know?
This CMHC sponsored article from 2002 is still very much valid today. There is still a significant portion of leaky condos out there that have either not been fixed or not even discovered yet.
The CMHC article identifies that many home inspection reports are of a check list nature with "
buried significant information; and written comments by an inspector may appear benign but closer examination by a person knowledgeable about building envelope failure would
reveal ominous warnings couched in soft language" The report also states "It was found that the extent to which the exterior of a building is inspected varies greatly;"
The task of buying a condo is stressful enough without worrying if your inspector is going to even look at the building envelope, and then if they do, whether they will protect themselves more than the try to protect you by hiding behind vague unremarkable language, or will they present the defects in a clear, concise and understandable manner.
The Real Estate Council of BC back in 2000 sent this advisory to its members:
Some property inspections are restricted to the strata lot; others will include a limited investigation of the common property. Licensees should advise buyers to clarify with the inspector what services will be provided. An inspection that includes the common property is preferable, although more expensive than one that only includes the particular strata lot. Buyers may wish to confer with their property inspector about matters arising from the buyers’ review of the documentation they have received or from the inspection itself.
Much of the hesitation by home inspectors to look at what is termed the 'common areas' (which include the building envelope) is the fact that no inspection association group has standards of inspection that include common area inspections. As a result no home inspector can get insurance for such areas. As a result the vast majority go out of their way to avoid such areas and instead focus their inspection on the purchased unit only. This shedding of responsibility by the entire industry, leaves the home buyer vulnerable to extreme levels of liability, as the problems are very seldom truthfully and completely reported in the minutes or Form D's.
The report goes on to look into why more people who bought 'leaky condo's" did not get an inspection. Out of the 40 persons studied, 29 did not get an inspection with 9 of those citing that their Realtor encouraged them to not get an inspection citing the following reasons:
• “We are trying to make this purchase affordable for you”
• “It’s never been lived in. You don’t need one.”
• “No point. They only look at your suite – not the rest of building”
• “It’s all been repaired.”
• “You have the CMHC full package deal and they will appraise the building.”
SENWI feels this is an unacceptable situation and so even though the inspection body we have received our certification through does not include common area inspections in its Standard of Practice and as a result we are unable to get insurance for such areas - we still go out of our way to inspect, analyze, report, and then clearly explain defects we feel are present or likely on a particular building envelope. We take on average an extra 2 hours to look at the building exterior, roof, common mechanical rooms and parkade. We look to see if the Strata is managing the building well or consistently deferring required maintenance. We will insist you receive building envelope engineers reports and help interpret the report findings to you in a clear and understandable way.
This will all result in you being able to make an informed purchasing decision. Look to Realtor Independent SENWI inspector for your condo inspection needs. We will go the extra mile so that you do not have to.
The CMHC article identifies that many home inspection reports are of a check list nature with "
buried significant information; and written comments by an inspector may appear benign but closer examination by a person knowledgeable about building envelope failure would
reveal ominous warnings couched in soft language" The report also states "It was found that the extent to which the exterior of a building is inspected varies greatly;"
The task of buying a condo is stressful enough without worrying if your inspector is going to even look at the building envelope, and then if they do, whether they will protect themselves more than the try to protect you by hiding behind vague unremarkable language, or will they present the defects in a clear, concise and understandable manner.
The Real Estate Council of BC back in 2000 sent this advisory to its members:
Some property inspections are restricted to the strata lot; others will include a limited investigation of the common property. Licensees should advise buyers to clarify with the inspector what services will be provided. An inspection that includes the common property is preferable, although more expensive than one that only includes the particular strata lot. Buyers may wish to confer with their property inspector about matters arising from the buyers’ review of the documentation they have received or from the inspection itself.
Much of the hesitation by home inspectors to look at what is termed the 'common areas' (which include the building envelope) is the fact that no inspection association group has standards of inspection that include common area inspections. As a result no home inspector can get insurance for such areas. As a result the vast majority go out of their way to avoid such areas and instead focus their inspection on the purchased unit only. This shedding of responsibility by the entire industry, leaves the home buyer vulnerable to extreme levels of liability, as the problems are very seldom truthfully and completely reported in the minutes or Form D's.
The report goes on to look into why more people who bought 'leaky condo's" did not get an inspection. Out of the 40 persons studied, 29 did not get an inspection with 9 of those citing that their Realtor encouraged them to not get an inspection citing the following reasons:
• “We are trying to make this purchase affordable for you”
• “It’s never been lived in. You don’t need one.”
• “No point. They only look at your suite – not the rest of building”
• “It’s all been repaired.”
• “You have the CMHC full package deal and they will appraise the building.”
SENWI feels this is an unacceptable situation and so even though the inspection body we have received our certification through does not include common area inspections in its Standard of Practice and as a result we are unable to get insurance for such areas - we still go out of our way to inspect, analyze, report, and then clearly explain defects we feel are present or likely on a particular building envelope. We take on average an extra 2 hours to look at the building exterior, roof, common mechanical rooms and parkade. We look to see if the Strata is managing the building well or consistently deferring required maintenance. We will insist you receive building envelope engineers reports and help interpret the report findings to you in a clear and understandable way.
This will all result in you being able to make an informed purchasing decision. Look to Realtor Independent SENWI inspector for your condo inspection needs. We will go the extra mile so that you do not have to.
Friday, August 13, 2010
SAFERhomes
It was a pleasure working with Pat Simpson of SAFERhomes to install the first ever SAFERhomes nameplate on a SAFER certified dwelling in the Olympic Village on Aug 12, 2010. This was a historic moment for SAFERhomes and I was thrilled to be a part of it. In all, there were over 250 condominiums that were certified on this day. Congradulations to Pat for the realization of a decade long dream!
SAFERhomes is a program that ensures homes are built to service people of all ages and abilities. It allows the home to be Universal in its design. The benefits of the program are limitless and the costs minimal, all while maintaining the look and feel of standard market housing.
For more information on the SAFERhomes program, download the program manual here.
SAFERhomes is a program that ensures homes are built to service people of all ages and abilities. It allows the home to be Universal in its design. The benefits of the program are limitless and the costs minimal, all while maintaining the look and feel of standard market housing.
For more information on the SAFERhomes program, download the program manual here.
What to look for in a inspector
Discussion on another blog I posted to regarding how to find the 'right' inspector. Look for one that takes the time to do the job right!.
Tuesday, April 6, 2010
Spring Cleanup
Now that Spring is upon us, it is time to take a look around the house to see what is needed in the way of repairs, adjustments,or replacement to keep your home in the best shape possible. First start by walking around the interior/exterior of the house and yard and making a list of the problems you see and deciding if it is a DIY or time to bring in the heavy guns. It is a good idea to perform this walk around multiples times in different weather conditions and different times of day.
Here is a list of some things you can check:
Chimneys:
- Damage to mortar or Bricks from winter frost?
- Does the Chimney have a cap? Is it sealed to prevent water from flowing inside the chimney?
- If you are burning wood, does your chimney have a spark arrestor?
- Is there a screen to prevent birds from making a nest inside the chimney? Is it intact?
- once you have finished using the fireplaces for the season, book your chimney sweep and service all flues. You will be ready for the fall season, if something is wrong you will have plenty of time to fix it, and it is usually cheaper in the spring.
Roofs:
DO NOT GO ON THE ROOF UNLESS YOU ARE COMPLETELY COMFORTABLE DOING SO. Never go onto a wet shake roof or a clay/concrete tile roof. Leave it to the pro's. Most roof surfaces can be viewed from the ground or the edges of the roof while standing on a ladder. If using a ladder against metal gutters - use stand-offs to protect the gutter and prevent the ladder from slipping on its surface.
- Look for loose, missing, damaged shakes/shingles/tiles
- Look for missing or damaged flashings
- Clean out the gutters and ensure they and the downspouts are in good condition and not leaking
- Remove any debris that has built up on the top side of penetrations like chimneys and skylights
- Clean out the debris build up in the valleys
- Look for damage or rot to wood eaves and fascias.
Exterior Walls:
- Look for ways water can get into wall structure (cracks, joints, knot holes, penetrations..) and seal with appropriate caulking.
Remember - caulking will not stick for long if just smeared on a surface. It needs a void to flow into and compress again for a lasting joint. Most contractors will recommend 1/4" to 3/8" gap to start. If the gap is bigger, then first install a backer rod, not only does is save caulking, but it also ensures the caulk when applied forms the right hour-glass shape for maximum grip and flexibility.
- What is the condition of the paint/stain? Blisters, Cracks, Peeling ? Can you see bare wood anywhere?
Foundation:
- Is there any cracks? Have they changed since last inspection? (If you have an unfinished basement, look on the inside of the walls as well. Look for points water may be seeping through)
- Is there a min of 6" of space between the outside dirt and the bottom of the siding (2-3" Min between concrete and siding base)
- Does the ground or sidewalks around the house slope away from the house (will water flow away or to the house). This is really important when there is a sub ground finished basement.
Porches & Decks:
- Any damaged wood including stairs and railings
- Any bare wood (will rot even if pressure treated)
- Are the stairs slippery when wet?
- Do the railings feel strong? Would you feel comfortable leaning against them with all your weight?
- Is the base of wood stairs sitting directly on concrete or dirt? There should be a membrane between the wood and concrete and they should never be resting on dirt.
- Are the stairs attached at the top with only nails? They should be attached with metal hangers.
- Is the deck mebrane torn, cracked, or loose
- Is there any spots between the deck and the house where water can enter the house structure.
Sidewalks and Driveways:
- Have any settled and now present a trip hazard
- Are they sloped away from the house
- Are the drains and sumps clear of debris
- Are they spalling because of last winters ise removal efforts
- Are they covered in moss and slippery
Plantings/trees:
- Are any touching the house and causing damage (vines growing on the side of a home will almost always cause damage to the wall structure)?
- Is there enough room between the plants and the house to allow good air movement and prevent moss and mildew growth on house surface?
- Do the plantings provide cover for a burglar?
Security:
- Do all the exterior lights work?
- Consider adding a motion sensor to turn them on automatically if movement is sensed
- Do all exterior doors have a deadbolt that is at least 1" long?
- Does the deadbolt insert through a metal strikeplate that is screwed into the wall's structure (2"x4") with at least 2 - 3" screws?
- Do any exterior doors have a keyed deadbolt on the Inside of the door meaning you need a key to get out? These are VERY dangerous and should be changed to a standard latch.
Heating & Cooling:
- Is your furnace filter clean?
- Are the fins in your exterior air conditioner or heat pump clean?
- Now is a good time to drain and rinse your Hot Water Tank (only if you have been doing so since new or tank is less than 5 years old. If the tank is older and never been flushed, there is a chance that rust has built up at the bottom and flushing the tank can remove some of teh scale and cause leaks. However - if it is this far gone, it will need treplacing soon anyway.)
General:
- consider upgrading all of your supply tubes to the sinks,toilets and appliance to a S.S. braided hose style (Made in America - Not CHINA) or better yet, install WATTS Flood Safe Hoses.
- Inspect Attic for water leaks, moisture buildup (mold), or the presence of pests
- Change all the washers/cartridges on any leaking faucets
- Look at all inside wall and ceiling surfaces for any new cracks or changes in old cracks that may indicate current movement of the structure
These are just some things to look for. If you want a comprehensive inspection of your home, why not call SENWI for one of our famous 'Tune-Up' inspections.
Here is a list of some things you can check:
Chimneys:
- Damage to mortar or Bricks from winter frost?
- Does the Chimney have a cap? Is it sealed to prevent water from flowing inside the chimney?
- If you are burning wood, does your chimney have a spark arrestor?
- Is there a screen to prevent birds from making a nest inside the chimney? Is it intact?
- once you have finished using the fireplaces for the season, book your chimney sweep and service all flues. You will be ready for the fall season, if something is wrong you will have plenty of time to fix it, and it is usually cheaper in the spring.
Roofs:
DO NOT GO ON THE ROOF UNLESS YOU ARE COMPLETELY COMFORTABLE DOING SO. Never go onto a wet shake roof or a clay/concrete tile roof. Leave it to the pro's. Most roof surfaces can be viewed from the ground or the edges of the roof while standing on a ladder. If using a ladder against metal gutters - use stand-offs to protect the gutter and prevent the ladder from slipping on its surface.
- Look for loose, missing, damaged shakes/shingles/tiles
- Look for missing or damaged flashings
- Clean out the gutters and ensure they and the downspouts are in good condition and not leaking
- Remove any debris that has built up on the top side of penetrations like chimneys and skylights
- Clean out the debris build up in the valleys
- Look for damage or rot to wood eaves and fascias.
Exterior Walls:
- Look for ways water can get into wall structure (cracks, joints, knot holes, penetrations..) and seal with appropriate caulking.
Remember - caulking will not stick for long if just smeared on a surface. It needs a void to flow into and compress again for a lasting joint. Most contractors will recommend 1/4" to 3/8" gap to start. If the gap is bigger, then first install a backer rod, not only does is save caulking, but it also ensures the caulk when applied forms the right hour-glass shape for maximum grip and flexibility.
- What is the condition of the paint/stain? Blisters, Cracks, Peeling ? Can you see bare wood anywhere?
Foundation:
- Is there any cracks? Have they changed since last inspection? (If you have an unfinished basement, look on the inside of the walls as well. Look for points water may be seeping through)
- Is there a min of 6" of space between the outside dirt and the bottom of the siding (2-3" Min between concrete and siding base)
- Does the ground or sidewalks around the house slope away from the house (will water flow away or to the house). This is really important when there is a sub ground finished basement.
Porches & Decks:
- Any damaged wood including stairs and railings
- Any bare wood (will rot even if pressure treated)
- Are the stairs slippery when wet?
- Do the railings feel strong? Would you feel comfortable leaning against them with all your weight?
- Is the base of wood stairs sitting directly on concrete or dirt? There should be a membrane between the wood and concrete and they should never be resting on dirt.
- Are the stairs attached at the top with only nails? They should be attached with metal hangers.
- Is the deck mebrane torn, cracked, or loose
- Is there any spots between the deck and the house where water can enter the house structure.
Sidewalks and Driveways:
- Have any settled and now present a trip hazard
- Are they sloped away from the house
- Are the drains and sumps clear of debris
- Are they spalling because of last winters ise removal efforts
- Are they covered in moss and slippery
Plantings/trees:
- Are any touching the house and causing damage (vines growing on the side of a home will almost always cause damage to the wall structure)?
- Is there enough room between the plants and the house to allow good air movement and prevent moss and mildew growth on house surface?
- Do the plantings provide cover for a burglar?
Security:
- Do all the exterior lights work?
- Consider adding a motion sensor to turn them on automatically if movement is sensed
- Do all exterior doors have a deadbolt that is at least 1" long?
- Does the deadbolt insert through a metal strikeplate that is screwed into the wall's structure (2"x4") with at least 2 - 3" screws?
- Do any exterior doors have a keyed deadbolt on the Inside of the door meaning you need a key to get out? These are VERY dangerous and should be changed to a standard latch.
Heating & Cooling:
- Is your furnace filter clean?
- Are the fins in your exterior air conditioner or heat pump clean?
- Now is a good time to drain and rinse your Hot Water Tank (only if you have been doing so since new or tank is less than 5 years old. If the tank is older and never been flushed, there is a chance that rust has built up at the bottom and flushing the tank can remove some of teh scale and cause leaks. However - if it is this far gone, it will need treplacing soon anyway.)
General:
- consider upgrading all of your supply tubes to the sinks,toilets and appliance to a S.S. braided hose style (Made in America - Not CHINA) or better yet, install WATTS Flood Safe Hoses.
- Inspect Attic for water leaks, moisture buildup (mold), or the presence of pests
- Change all the washers/cartridges on any leaking faucets
- Look at all inside wall and ceiling surfaces for any new cracks or changes in old cracks that may indicate current movement of the structure
These are just some things to look for. If you want a comprehensive inspection of your home, why not call SENWI for one of our famous 'Tune-Up' inspections.
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
Home Inspector sued for $200K
The recent award against a home inspector in the amount of $200K send shock waves through the home inspection industry. Many in the industry disagree with the findings of the judge, and feel the inspector was unfairly prosecuted. I feel (based on the facts presented) that the judgment is totally warranted and hopefully represents a turning point for the responsibilities that home inspectors must accept.
For me the whole case rests on the following statements made by the judge:
"Mr. Toth took about 30 minutes to inspect the roof and the “rest of the exterior of the House”
"37] I find that Mr. Toth made no inspection of the vertical beams on the east side of the House. I find that an inspection of two of those beams would have been easily accessible through an unlocked door off the lower balcony. This door led into a room that was otherwise inaccessible from inside the House. I find that even a cursory examination of the two beams in this area would have revealed to Mr. Toth that they were rotten."
This to me, shows a complete lack of regard by Mr. Toth's of his client's liability. Too many in this industry are trying to make a fast buck. Too many inspectors schedule 2 or more inspections in a day. Too many inspectors hide behind their contracts to provide a mediocre level of service to their clients.
The facts are, that to do this job right, you MUST take the time to thoroughly inspect and investigate the dwelling of interest. This is not about how fast you can fill in the check marks on your pre-printed and limited inspection report. This is not about finding excuses on why you did not need to look at a certain portion of the dwelling.
An inspector should be doing everything possible to see ALL of the dwelling. If they need a ladder to see a beam that is up high up, then go get the ladder and do so (but wait, a very large number of inspectors do not even carry ladders with them - oops). If an inspector needs to crawl through some bush to access one side of a dwelling then they should do so.
A word to the inspector - STOP RUSHING and do your job!
It takes time to do this job right, the public needs to realize this and demand a thorough inspector. This means they will have to pay more for this service. You cannot expect a thorough inspector that takes the better part of a day (or even longer) to complete an inspection, to charge the same as one who does two inspections a day. This does not mean however, just because an inspector is charging a higher than average fee, that they are providing a quality service. As your inspector how long the inspection will take, how long the report will take, and what will be included in the report.
The public needs to ask “Why are we hiring an inspector?” If you really are not worried and are only meeting a requirement of the mortgage company then by all means, choose the cheapest & fastest inspector you can find. If you REALLY WANT TO KNOW what the condition of the dwelling is so that you can make an informed decision on if this purchase is right for you then demand quality. Choose someone by the type of the report they will provide and how long they will spend at site and in the preparation of the report. Choose someone who is looking out for YOUR best interests.
The most important requirement is that YOU need to choose YOUR inspector. Do not rely on your Realtor to choose for you. They are, in the vast majority of cases, looking for inspectors that do not take too long (3 hours or less), do not (in their mind) charge too much ($250 - $450), and often (again in their mind) an inspector that does not “blow deficiencies out of proportion”. Remember, our job as inspectors, is to identify deficiencies, large and small, that effect your safety or represent a financial liability down the road. It is your job as a buyer to decide if you can live with those deficiencies. We as inspectors SHOULD NOT BE passing or failing a home.
Almost any deficiency can be fixed, it only takes time and money. The question is, do you have the time or money to address, and does the selling price take these deficiencies into consideration?
For me the whole case rests on the following statements made by the judge:
"Mr. Toth took about 30 minutes to inspect the roof and the “rest of the exterior of the House”
"37] I find that Mr. Toth made no inspection of the vertical beams on the east side of the House. I find that an inspection of two of those beams would have been easily accessible through an unlocked door off the lower balcony. This door led into a room that was otherwise inaccessible from inside the House. I find that even a cursory examination of the two beams in this area would have revealed to Mr. Toth that they were rotten."
This to me, shows a complete lack of regard by Mr. Toth's of his client's liability. Too many in this industry are trying to make a fast buck. Too many inspectors schedule 2 or more inspections in a day. Too many inspectors hide behind their contracts to provide a mediocre level of service to their clients.
The facts are, that to do this job right, you MUST take the time to thoroughly inspect and investigate the dwelling of interest. This is not about how fast you can fill in the check marks on your pre-printed and limited inspection report. This is not about finding excuses on why you did not need to look at a certain portion of the dwelling.
An inspector should be doing everything possible to see ALL of the dwelling. If they need a ladder to see a beam that is up high up, then go get the ladder and do so (but wait, a very large number of inspectors do not even carry ladders with them - oops). If an inspector needs to crawl through some bush to access one side of a dwelling then they should do so.
A word to the inspector - STOP RUSHING and do your job!
It takes time to do this job right, the public needs to realize this and demand a thorough inspector. This means they will have to pay more for this service. You cannot expect a thorough inspector that takes the better part of a day (or even longer) to complete an inspection, to charge the same as one who does two inspections a day. This does not mean however, just because an inspector is charging a higher than average fee, that they are providing a quality service. As your inspector how long the inspection will take, how long the report will take, and what will be included in the report.
The public needs to ask “Why are we hiring an inspector?” If you really are not worried and are only meeting a requirement of the mortgage company then by all means, choose the cheapest & fastest inspector you can find. If you REALLY WANT TO KNOW what the condition of the dwelling is so that you can make an informed decision on if this purchase is right for you then demand quality. Choose someone by the type of the report they will provide and how long they will spend at site and in the preparation of the report. Choose someone who is looking out for YOUR best interests.
The most important requirement is that YOU need to choose YOUR inspector. Do not rely on your Realtor to choose for you. They are, in the vast majority of cases, looking for inspectors that do not take too long (3 hours or less), do not (in their mind) charge too much ($250 - $450), and often (again in their mind) an inspector that does not “blow deficiencies out of proportion”. Remember, our job as inspectors, is to identify deficiencies, large and small, that effect your safety or represent a financial liability down the road. It is your job as a buyer to decide if you can live with those deficiencies. We as inspectors SHOULD NOT BE passing or failing a home.
Almost any deficiency can be fixed, it only takes time and money. The question is, do you have the time or money to address, and does the selling price take these deficiencies into consideration?
Lower Mainland Real Estate Market
If you have been following the news lately or talking with your Realtor, you are probably under the impression that the Real Estate in the Lower Mainland is hot and feeling pressured to get into the market before it is 'too late'.
But is this an accurate assessment of the current market???
I have personally been tracking the number of sales (not the selling values, just the quantities of sales) of nine cities in the lower mainland since September of 2008 and plotting the number of sales for each city and posting to my website. These graphs clearly show that we are not out of the woods yet. The market generally peaked during the sumer of 2009 and has declined ever since to levels that are close to those of Dec 2008 when the market had crashed. It will remain to be seen if the market starts a general uptrend in February/March 2010 (markets typically have slow December & January periods)
Of specific interest is the ratio of active listings (yellow) to the number of sales for the previous months (blue) that is shown on the last page. This allows a very quick indication of whether the particular city represents a buyers market or a sellers market. Other than in West Vancouver where there generally are few condos listed at any one point in time, the other cities have constitantly shown this segment of the marketplace to be a buyer's market (lots of listings and few sales). The single family homes are a bit harder to say as there generally is not as much of a spread between the listings and sales (except in Surrey where the availability always exceeds the demand by many times).
The purpose of this blog entry is to ask that you become an educated consumer and do not let yourself be led by the hype of the media or the Real Estate industry. The latter, of course, have a vested interest in keeping people interested in buying. They need to survive and can only do so if they sell, who can blame them. But do not let this hype pressure you into buying beyond your means or before you are ready.
There presently is lots of fish in the sea and you have options. Make sure you are aware of this and take advantage of these options.
But is this an accurate assessment of the current market???
I have personally been tracking the number of sales (not the selling values, just the quantities of sales) of nine cities in the lower mainland since September of 2008 and plotting the number of sales for each city and posting to my website. These graphs clearly show that we are not out of the woods yet. The market generally peaked during the sumer of 2009 and has declined ever since to levels that are close to those of Dec 2008 when the market had crashed. It will remain to be seen if the market starts a general uptrend in February/March 2010 (markets typically have slow December & January periods)
Of specific interest is the ratio of active listings (yellow) to the number of sales for the previous months (blue) that is shown on the last page. This allows a very quick indication of whether the particular city represents a buyers market or a sellers market. Other than in West Vancouver where there generally are few condos listed at any one point in time, the other cities have constitantly shown this segment of the marketplace to be a buyer's market (lots of listings and few sales). The single family homes are a bit harder to say as there generally is not as much of a spread between the listings and sales (except in Surrey where the availability always exceeds the demand by many times).
The purpose of this blog entry is to ask that you become an educated consumer and do not let yourself be led by the hype of the media or the Real Estate industry. The latter, of course, have a vested interest in keeping people interested in buying. They need to survive and can only do so if they sell, who can blame them. But do not let this hype pressure you into buying beyond your means or before you are ready.
There presently is lots of fish in the sea and you have options. Make sure you are aware of this and take advantage of these options.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)